Cette semaine de stage a permis à des quatre jeunes grimpeurs (Etoile Izarar, Nil Bertrand, Gaétan Izarn et Guillaume Bernard) de se perfectionner à l’escalade en haute montagne et à l’alpinisme classique dans les montagnes « sauvages » d’Ubaye et d’Oisans :
Au fond de du vallon de Mary et face au glacier du Marinet se dresse un beau monolithe de quartzite : l’aiguille Pierre André.Nous l’avons escaladé par la sud/sud-est ; une vielle voie de 200 mètres en partie équipée de niveau V/V+.
Les Alpes de Haute Provence possèdent un « bout » de haute montagne, la Haute Ubaye et ses Aiguilles de Chambeyron culminent à 3412 mètres d’altitude et c’est par sa belle arête est que nous avons rejoint son sommet. Cet itinéraire assez difficile exige une bonne maîtrise de l’assurance en terrain montagne. En ce début de saison la neige était encore bien présente dans le couloir Gastaldi ce qui a rendu la course bien complète.
Le chemin pour le sympathique refuge du Pavé est long et le temps incertain en début juillet. C’est donc dans une ambiance humide que nous atteignons finalement le refuge. Les mauvaises conditions météo persistantes nous ont contraint à abandonner notre projet d’ascension, nous en profitons pour revoir les techniques de sécurité et d’encordement sur glacier et en neige avec au programme : la pose corps mort, les mouflages, la marche encordée sur pente de neige raide et l’encordement sur glacier crevassé.
Le lendemain grâce au retour du soleil mais une ambiance encore très froide les jeunes « apprentis montagnards » ont pu grimper au pic Nord des Cavale par son arête sud. Cette course peu difficile en excellent granite a permis aux jeunes de poser eux même leurs protections (friends et coinceurs)et de se perfectionner à l’assurage en mouvement.
Fabien Berrod
Date de création : 15/09/2008 @ 19:37
Dernière modification : 15/09/2008 @ 19:44
Catégorie : Alpinisme Page lue 4989 fois
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